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Replace Your Toilet
Changing your outdated or broken toilet is easier than you think

Level of difficulty: Intermediate

The toilet is often looked at as a set feature of your bathroom. But it isn't. You'll want to replace the toilet when remodeling your bathroom so it matches your new decor. Or you may want to get one that's more efficient.

There are two main versions that look similar but have some different operations. However both meet the federal law that states that new toilets can only use 1.6 gallons of water per flush.

1. Gravity-operated toilet. Most commonly used today, it carefully regulates the inflow of water. Gravity-operated toilets are best used in houses that have low water pressure.

2. Pressure-tank toilet. Named so because it pressurizes the water when it is filling and rapidly releases the pressure when flushed. This causes the water to be forcefully pushed from the toilet. One possible drawback is that when it flushes it makes a loud noise. However, this is a good toilet when the sewer is far away (such as in the country) or it often clogs. The increased pressure helps break up any debris in the pipe.

Prices range from the blue collar toilet to the royal throne. You just need to choose the model type, color and shape that you want.

Measure first. Before you buy, make sure the toilet will fit. Measure the distance from the wall to the pipe that is in the floor. Measure from the wall (not the baseboard) to the center of the bolt that holds the toilet to the floor. Measure to the closest bolt if there are two. The customary distance is 12 inches but it could be more, or less.

Tools and Materials:

Sponges and rags Plunger 8-inch adjustable wrench 8-inch flat head screwdriver Hacksaw Pan Putty knife Wax or rubber closet seal Toilet Parts for inside the tank: ballcock, flush valve, handle, handle lever, rubber flapper, chain for flapper (you need to buy these but some parts might come as a kit so you might not have to buy them all individually) Brass closet and tank bolts (some toilets come with these but they might be plated steel, you want brass) Level Spud wrench or 10-inch channel-type pliers Flexible supply tube (if old one won't reach new tank) Tubing bender (need if using new supply tube) Tubing cutter (need if using new supply tube) Brass compression fittings Pipe joint compound Adjustable wrench


	Tip:

		There are different types of ballcocks that you can get. The most durable and water efficient is the float cup ballcock. This ballcock regulates the water better and it is made from plastic which protects it from rust and warping. Avoid the ballcock made from brass, which can bend and warp.

Removing Old Toilet 1. Empty Toilet

Turn off the angle stop located to the lower left of the toilet. This shuts off the water to the toilet. If you don't have an angle stop shutoff valve by your toilet you need to shut off the water at the main shutoff valve in the basement. Get rid of the water in the tank by flushing, then bail out the water that is in the bowl using a plunger to force the rest of the water into the bowl, then mop it up with sponges. To see a detailed view of the toilet and its parts, click here.

2. Take Off Supply Tube

Disconnect the supply lead tube. This is the tube that attaches from the angle stop to the toilet tank. Unscrew from the tank.

3. Remove Tank

If you have a one-piece toilet, proceed to Step 4. If not, remove the tank cover and mop up the inside. Reach inside the tank and unscrew the bolts that attach it to the toilet. Use the 8-inch wrench to hold the washer that is under the tank and use the screwdriver to turn the bolt. Lift the tank off.

4. Detach Bowl from Floor

Be prepared to get water on your floor. Take off the caps that are over the bolts in the floor. Unscrew the nuts using the 8-inch wrench. You may need a hacksaw to get these off if they are corroded.

Tilt the bowl forward and rock it from side to side. Lift the bowl from the floor. There is less spillage if the bowl is tilted forward. Put a rag into the pipe leading from the floor. This keeps the sewer gases from coming into the bathroom.

Pry up the old wax seal that is around the pipe on the floor with the putty knife. Remove the old bolts from the floor, even if you didn't cut them with the hacksaw. Replace them with the new bolts that you bought or came with the new toilet.


	Tip:

		To reduce spillage put a pan next to the toilet. When you remove the bowl dump the excess water into it.

Installing New Toilet 5. Attach Wax Seal

Turn the new bowl over and put on the new wax or rubber seal around the hole. Place a new wax ring over drain horn. If ring has a rubber or plastic sleeve, sleeve should face away from toilet. Apply a bead of plumber’s putty to bottom edge of toilet base.

6. Install New Bowl

		Turn the bowl back over and position it so that the bolts fit through the holes. Twist the bowl a bit to make sure it is in the right place. Press the bowl down to the floor to compress the seal. The best way to press is to sit on it. Tighten the nuts on the bolts while sitting on it.


	Caution:

		Don't tighten the bolts too much, otherwise they can crack the porcelain. Make sure that toilet is level. Use little planks of wood to shore up the toilet to make it level. Over the next few days the toilet settles, so come back occasionally and tighten the nuts so that they are snug.


	Tip:

		Dump some water into the bowl to make sure that the water won't leak out of the bottom. If it does, try to compress the wax seal more. If that doesn't work, you need to start over with a new wax seal.

7. Replace Tank Parts Inside and Reattach Tank

		Before you proceed you need to put on the handle, flush valve, and float cup ballcock. Once these are in place attach the tank to the bowl. If you have a one-piece tank, proceed to Step 8. If not, turn the tank over and attach the spud washer over the tailpiece of pipe. Turn the tank back over and position tank so that spud washer fits into the hole that's on the seat. Attach the tank to the toilet using the washers and bolts. Make sure they are tight by holding onto the washer with the wrench and use the screwdriver to turn the bolt.


	Caution:

		Don't over tighten the bolts, it can crack the base. Attach the chain on the rubber stopper inside the tank to the handle lever making sure that it is somewhat taut.

8. Attach Supply Tube and Turn On Water

Reconnect the supply tube to the new tank. If it doesn't reach then you need to use your new supply tube.

Use the tubing bender to bend the tube so that it reaches from the tank to the angle stop. Hold the tube so that it is in place under the tank. The flared end of the tube is the end that attaches to the tank. Mark it so that the cutting line is under the threads on the angle stop.

Position the pipe in the tube cutter so that the cutting wheel is on the line you marked. Tighten the handle so that the pipe is held on the rollers. Turn the cutter once to score the tube. Turn the cutter the opposite direction making sure to tighten the handle every two rotations. When the pipe is cut, use the reaming end of the cutter and smooth out the insides of the pipe.

Put the compression nut, then the compression ring, on the supply tube. (The threads of the compression nut should face down, toward the valve.) Put joint compound onto the compression ring and place the tube into the supply valve. Slide the ring and nut to the threads and tighten the nut.

Use the wrench to tighten the nut, but not too much. Connect the tube to the tank using a compression nut. Open the angle stop and let the tank fill with water.

9. Ensure Toilet Works

Test the toilet by flushing a number of times. Put on the toilet seat cover and clean up.